This park contains a huge Maya city, Tikal, which reached its peak in the classic period (between 250 and 900 a.C.). The temple complexes and pyramids made of limestone, which are over 30 meters high, are surrounded by lush vegetation. In a single day you can watch more than 100 species of birds, surrounded by a world of culture and beauty. The crestwork on top of the temples serves as ideal lookout points to observe birds of prey and other birds living in the tree tops. A paved road takes you to the entrance of the archaeological site and there are lodging and eating facilities inside the park.

Location: Municipal District of Flores, Department of Peten
Area: 55,005 hectares (CONAP, 2006)

Red-lored Parrot / Francois Herrera

by Alfredo Maul

CLIMATE
The climate in Tikal is quite hot and humid. Its mean temperature is 26º C. and the relative humidity is close to 76%. It rains most of the year and the annual rainfall is about 1,590.60 mm.

VEGETATION
Tikal has a jungle made up of large trees that are a many of decades old, such as cedars, mahogany, sapodilla and silk cotton trees, along with pepper trees which have a white bark. The beliefs and food habits of the ancient Maya seem to have been linked to the vegetation of the place. They believed that the silk cotton tree (Ceiba pentandra) served as a communicator between the heavens, earth and the nether world, because of which it was considered a sacred tree. Maya incense or “pom” which comes from the “copal” tree, is an essential element for Maya ceremonies. The fruit of the bread nut tree is thought to have been a food supplement for the common Maya people. At present, bread nut or “ramon” seeds are appreciated by monkeys, birds and the people who make them into cakes.

Chicle is extracted from the sapodilla tree (Manilkara achras). During the rainy season men disappear into the jungle and make their camps. Then with their machetes they make V-shaped cuts in the bark and wait for the white sap to drip into containers.

CULTURAL SPOTS
• RUINS: The temple and pyramid complexes were built for ceremonial purposes and are the evidence of the Maya civilization, which was outstanding in the classic period.

• MUSEUMS: The museums of the park contain carved stele, ceramics and other objects which have been found here.

CONTACTS
If you wish to visit the park with a guide specialized in birds, contact: Tour Operators

GETTING THERE

By Air:
From Guatemala City you can take a flight to Santa Elena. The round trip fare is about US$205. You can take a taxi, a microbus or bus at Santa Elena to take you to the park. Almost every hour a microbus leaves for the park. The rate is Q30 (US$4) and if you wish to make an express trip, the rate rises to Q150 (US$20). You can also rent a car at the airport (See Car Rentals). When you leave Santa Elena, take the paved highway to Tikal Park. Site Map

AIR LINES	TELEPHONE	INTERNET
Transportes Aéreos de Guatemala (TAG)	(502)2361-1180 2360-3038	www.tag.com.gt
Grupo TACA	(502) 2470-8222	www.grupotaca.com

Overland
From Guatemala City, take the Atlantic Highway CA-9 to La Ruidosa, Izabal, where you turn left on Highway CA-13 to Rio Dulce. The drive from Guatemala City to the Rio Dulce takes about 4-1/2 hours. Continue along Highway CA-13 to Poptun (about an hour) and then on to Flores (another two hours). The road from Poptun to Flores is paved. Just before reaching Flores there is a sign pointing to Tikal National Park, turn right there and drive another 66 Km to the Park.
If you want to take a bus from Guatemala City see Bus Companies. You could take the 10-hour overnight trip, sleep and wake up refreshed the next day.

Cost of Admission to Tikal Park:
• Guatemalans Q25 from Monday through Saturday, Sundays free
• Foreigners Q150 (US$20)
• The cost of admission also includes admission to the Sylvanus Morley Museum Open: From 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM

BIRDING SPOTS
Tikal is one of the best places, along with Cerro San Gil in Izabal, to watch birds of prey. You can see the Orange-breasted Falcon (Falco deiroleucus), the Roadside Hawk (Buteo magnirosstris), the Black Hawk-Eagle (Spizaetus tyrannus), the Grey-headed Kite (Leptodon cayanensis) and the King Vulture (Sacoramphus papa) in lesser numbers.

Temple IV and the Temple of Inscriptions
In the park, the Maya architecture and the tropical jungle constitute a very special combination. Temple IV juts out over the jungle and rises above all the other pyramids with its 65 meters (224 feet) in height. From the temple crestwork you can see the display of the Ornate Hawk-Eagle (Spizaetus ornatus), usually just before the rains start. Early in the morning or at dusk, it is common to see the American Kestrel (Falco rufigularis), hunting dragonflies or birds. The cusp of the temple is an excellent point for watching birds of prey and other birds, such as the Red-crowned Ant-Tanager (Habia rubica), Red-throated Ant-Tanager (Habia fuscicauda), the Yellow-winged Tanager (Thraupis abbas) and the foraging tanagers. The Temple of the Inscriptions is also a good lookout point and during the migration season, you can see hundreds of Swallow-tailed Kite (Elanoides forficatus) flying over the ruins.

In the area of the ruins you can observe Ocellated Turkeys or “guajolotes ocelados” (Meleagris ocellata). They are a sure thing for your records! And you can get quite close to them as they have lost their fear of humans. These turkeys seek out places covered by grasses or dead leaves and feed on small invertebrates, grass seeds and fruit of trees like the bread nut (Brosimum sp.), a fruit which gives off an odor which can be perceived throughout the area. The birth of their chicks (April-May) coincides with the appearance of fruit on the trees (Negreros, 1996).

Army ants “hormigas arrieras” are quite common in this area and you should not miss them. If you do not run into them by chance, you should look for them. As the ants approach, grasshoppers and spiders start to jump and the leaves of the trees begin to move. Behind these carnivorous ants there is always a bunch of birds, which allows you to hear their various songs. These foraging birds consist of the Rufous-breasted Spinetail (Synallaxis erythrotorax), the Barred Antshrike (Thamnophilus doliatus), the Red-crowned Ant-Tanager (Habia rubica), the Red-throated Ant-Tanager (Habia fuscicauda), the Bright-rumped Attila (Attila spadiceus), the Mexican Antthrush (Formicarius moniliger), the Grey-headed Tanager (Eucometis penicillata), woodcreepers and warblers. According to M. V. Centeno (pers. Comm., 1999), it is more likely that you will find these groups in the dry season. The Collared Aracari (Pteroglossus torquatus) and the Keel-billed Toucan (Ramphastus sulfuratus) feed on the fruit of the “guarumo” (Cecropia peltata). The “guano” (Sabal sp.), is a palm which is very abundant in the areas close to the temples and, in general, is usually full of birds. Its round fruit are appealing to the collared aracaris.

The interaction between the various species of birds is very interesting. A group of three or four Emerald Toucanet (Aulachorhynchus prasinus) can intimidate a pair of Golden-fronted Woodpecker (Centurus aurifrons) and force them to leave their nest. With the nest unprotected, the toucanets throw the chicks out of the nest and, with their long sawtoothed beak, proceed to eat the chicks (R. Schiele, nature illustrator, pers. Comm., 1999). Another example is that of the Giant Cowbird (Scaphidura oryzivora), who try to become parasites in the nests of the Montezuma Oropendola (Psarocolius montezuma). These interactions can be observed from the back of Temple II. The colonies of the oropendolas are easy to see because of their hanging nests.

The Ficus trees (Ficus sp.) bear fruit in different parts and at different times of the year inside the park. Most of the fruiteating birds, such as the Red-capped Manakin (Pipra mentalis), and the Red-legged Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes cyaneus) and the tanagers like their fruit.

Walking at dawn along the trail which joins Temple IV and the Uaxactun road, you may see the Royal Flycatcher (Onychorhynchus coronatus), the Great Curassow (Crax rubra), the Golden-hooded Tanager (Tangara larvata), and the Crested Guan (Penelope purpurascens). It will take time and patience to get to see certain cracids and the two species of tinamous which inhabit this type of forest, the Great Tinamou (Tinamus major) and the Slaty-breasted Tinamou (Crypturelllus boucardi). The Singing Quail (Dactylortyx throracicus) is difficult to get a glimpse of, but you may hear its song.

On the road to Uaxactún
On the trail to Uaxactún, at the bifurcation toward Complex Q, it is quite probable that you will find an assembly of Little Hermit (Pygmornis longuemareus). The males make their displays close to the ground before mating (around March) and during their displays make sounds similar to those of a grasshopper.

The Mundo Perdido (Lost World)
Mornings, the road to the Mundo Perdido is the stage for the Mealy Parrot (Amazona farinosa). They remain isolated before joining the groups for their foraging forays. From the top of this temple you will also be able to see the White-crowned Parrot (Pionus senilis) and the Keel-billed Toucan (Ramphastos sulfuratus).

The old Landing Field
When walking along the old landing field, you can frequently see “chachas” or Plain Chachalacas (Ortalis vetula). In the afternoon, you can watch them drinking water from puddles. The Black-headed Trogon (Trogon melanocephalus) also lives here and can be heard early in the morning. There are other birds, such as the White-fronted Parrot (Amazona albifrons), which fly over this field.

At the end of the field, there is a trail going south or southeast and from it you can watch the Great Black Hawk (Buteogallus urubitinga) and go in search of the Crested Eagle (Morphnus guianensis). At the water hole on the right of the field, you will be able to observe birds you will certainly not have seen elsewhere in the park. Some of the birds living in this area are the Scaled Pigeon (Columba speciosa), the Blue Ground-Dove (Claravis pretiosa), the Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift (Panyptila cayannensis), three species of kingfishers, the Amazon (Chloroceryle amazona), the Pygmy Kingfisher (Chloroceryle aenea), and the Green Kingfisher (Chloroceryle americana), the Grey-necked Wood-Rail (Aramides cajanea) and the Purple-crowned Fairy (Heliothryx barroti). These birds come to drink at the water hole and then dive into it. It is also possible to see some mammals, such as racoons, sloths and deer in the forest surrounding the water hole.

The Camp
Behind the Tikal Camp there are narrow trails leading into the jungle and there you can see the White-collared Manakin (Manacus candei). Usually, there is a group of males assembled, which make a noise with their wings which sounds like nut cracking. These birds stay close to the nests of parasol ants and form circles on the ground. The females observe this show from different branches.

The Long-tailed Hermit (Phaethornis superciliosus), the Little Hermit (Pygmornis longuemareus) and the White-necked Jacobin (Florisuga melliovra) live in the hotel gardens, although they can also be observed in the jungle and usually close to the heliconias. In the forest surrounding the hotels, you can hear the characteristic “jut-jut” of the Blue-crowned Motmot (Momotus momota).

The paved highway
At night, over the paved highway leading to the park entrance, you can see a number of animals crossing, such as red coatis and snakes and, if you are lucky, a jaguar. You will see spiders, including tarantulas with their red bellies, and many scorpions. (See recommendations.)

Inside the park there are two museums you can visit to see some of the objects discovered at the site, such as sculpted stele, some of which have hieroglyphic inscriptions, ceramic pieces and a variety of artefacts which can give you an idea of the way the people of this monumental city of the lowlands lived.

SERVICES
 

LODGING

HOTEL	TELEPHONE	RATE(SINGLE)	FACILITIES
TIKAL NATIONAL PARK
Hotel Jaguar Inn www.jaguartikal.com	(502)7926-0002	US$33	Pa, R, T, Internet
Hotel Jungle Lodge www.junglelodge.tikal.com reservaciones@junglelodge.guate.com	(502)7926-0519 2477-0570	US$69	P, R, Pa, AC,T
Hotel Tikal Inn	(502)7861-1939	US$138 Transportation, meals and tours (archeologic and birdwatching)included.	P, Pa, R, AC, T, Internet
SANTA ELENA
Hotel Maya Internacional www.villasdeguatemala.com	(502)7926-1276	US$61	P, R, Pa, T, Internet Private beach, gym, sauna
Petén Espléndido www.petenesplendido.com info@petenesplendido.com	(502)7926-0880 Reservations: 2360-8140	US$98	P, R, Pa, AC, T, Internet
SAN JOSÉ
Hotel Camino Real Tikal www.caminorealtikal.com.gt	(502)7926-0204 to 11 7926-0216 to 19	US$146 with tax (transportation to the airport, boat trip from Friday to Sunday and walk to Cerro Cahui Biotope included)	P, R, Pa, AC, T, Internet jacuzzi
SAN ANDRÉS
Ni'tum www.nitun.com stay@nitun.com	(502)5201-0759	US$120-150 (Macaw/Boa casitas-Hummingbird Suite)	R, Pa, T (included), Internet You can take a boat from Flores or drive (four-wheel drive vehicle is required). Birdwatching tours under request
EL REMATE
El Gringo Perdido www.hotelgringoperdido.com	2334-2305 2334-1967	US$40 Dinner and breakfast included	R, Pa, P for children Birdwatching tour from 5:30 to 7:30 A.M. Rate: Q100 (US$13)/ person You can take a boat trip (adicional) along the lake shores.
La Lancha www.blancaneaux.com info@blancaneaux.com	(502) 7928-8331	US$75 single Rainforest Casita (summer) to US$170 Lakeview Casita (peak) Continental breakfast, mountain bikes and hiking trails included.	P, R, Pa, AC Available a sunrise bird watchers boat tour.
FLORES
Hotel Isla de Flores reservaciones@junglelodge.guate.com	7861-0446 2477-0570	US$110 Transportation, meals and tour included.	R, AC, parking infront of the hotel
Hotel Villa Maya www.villasdeguatemala.com	5204-8269 2334-1818	US$97 Breakfast included	P, R, Pa, AC, Internet in front desk

* P = swimming pool, R = restaurant, Pa = parking, T = transportation to and from airport, AC= air conditioning.

ATTRACTIONS ALONG THE WAY:
From the time you land at the Santa Elena Airport you can start observing birds. During the migration season, you will see the Vermilion Flycatcher (Pyrocephalus rubinus), on the electric cables.

Cerro Cahuí Biotope
On the way to the Park you will find the Cerro Cahuí Biotope, which permits you to see a different scenario and complement the birds you see at Tikal. Its secondary growth forest shows the manner in which the Peten jungle regenerates. This hill is ideal for watching herons and sparrow hawks, which have their habitats near the water (in the lower parts), and parrots, such as the White-crowned Parrot (Pionus senilis), the Mealy Parrot (Amazona farinosa), and the Red-lored Parrot (Amazona autumnalis). You can walk along the trail of the biotope until you get to the lookout point, which is an excellent place for watching birds. From there you can see the crowns of trees which are in fruit. The mountainous nature of Cahuí Biotope makes it an ideal place to enjoy the scenery (Lake Petén Itzá and the Yaxhá Lagoon) and sunsets.

Access: Take the paved road to Tikal National Park, then turn left on an all weather road towards the El Remate Village, and a few kilometers along the way you will find the entrance to this biotope. Admission is Q5 for Guatemalans and Q20 (US$3) for foreigners. It is open from 7:00 AM to 4:00 PM.

Cerro Cahui

ALTERNATIVES
Uaxactún
This is an archaeological site which is much smaller than Tikal, but with a similar layout. It contains the first Maya architectural complex aligned to work as an astronomical observatory. The main function of these observatories was probably to determine the positions of the equinoxes and solstices. The chronological sequence of these lowlands was established in this site (Morley and Brainerd, 1983).

The surrounding vegetation is in a better condition than that of Tikal. It gives shelter to pacas “tepezcuintles”, to white tailed deer, spider and howler monkeys. Locally, the howler monkeys are called “zaraguates.” There is a chicle camp where you can spend the night. This camp is a clean place and some people consider it more pleasant that the hotels at Tikal, because of the privacy and the reduced number of tourists.

Access: From Tikal Park take the all weather road to Uaxactún. The drive takes about an hour (20 Km).

El Zotz Biotope
This biotope contains abundant vegetation and wildlife. Its greatest attraction is the Rock of the Bats, which gives the place its name (Zotz = bat). Every afternoon, at dusk, millions of bats come out of their caves to feed during the night. When they come out, the sky darkens due to the huge numbers of these flying mammals. You will also be able to watch one of their most important predators, the Bat Falcon (Falco rufigularis). At the El Zotz archaeological site there are some unexcavated mounds, the most outstanding of which is the Devil’s Pyramid, which is the highest and from the top of which you can glimpse the Tikal temples.

Access: When leaving Tikal National Park, take the paved highway and then the all weather road towards El Remate. When you get to the bifurcation in the road, turn right towards the community of El Cruce a Dos Aguadas (2 hours). Guides may be hired here. Continue by car 4 km more to the edge of the biotope, then walk 3-5 hours (17 km) to the Zotz administrative center. Here you may camp, during the rainy season a water hole provides fresh water. If you wish, you can cross the jungle to Tikal (the journey lasts about three days). It is recommended to make this trip during the dry season. In the rainy season, this crossing is very difficult, as most of the low parts are flooded, but this trip is a real challenge for adventure-lovers.

El Peru
This archaeological site is located in the largest wetlands area of Guatemala. Its greatest attraction are the Scarlet Macaw (Ara macao), of which there are 21 active nests, and the San Pedro River, where there are many varieties of aquatic birds, and which is the southern border of this park. If you visit the site during the macaw nesting season, from February to June, it is almost a sure record. In addition to bird watching tours, you can take a tour to El Peru archaeological site and enjoy a night-time boat trip to observe aquatic animals (featuring crocodiles). A biological station is available for spending the night. A guide, who has been working at the site for several years, can show you the area’s birds, which number about 220 between resident and migratory species (G. Gamez, Pro Petén, com. pers. 2006).

Access: When you get to Santa Elena (Km 485), take the all weather road which passes the San Benito Regional Hospital. After the hospital, turn right towards Sacpuy. At the Sacpuy-San Andrés bifurcation, turn left and follow the road (you will pass the entrance to the Lost Lagoon) until you reach Paso Caballos. The trip from Flores to Paso Caballos is about 75km. A four-wheel drive vehicle is required. At Paso Caballos you should hire a boat from either ProPetén or the village tourism committee. It takes 20 minutes to reach the biological station.

Rates: US$200/person for a 2 night/3 day tour, which includes birdwatching, a visit to El Peru archaeological site, night-time boat trip, lodging, food and transportation (twin cabin pick-up trucks and boat). Groups between 4 and 10 persons. Ask for other rates if bringing your own car.
To visit El Peru, contact ProPetén, several days in advance.
Adress: Calle Central, Ciudad Flores, Petén Tel: (502) 7867-5296 E-mail: ggamez@propeten.org or estacionguacamaya@propeten.org

Laguna del Tigre wetland / Francoise Herrera

Scarlet Macaw

SUGGESTIONS

• Look for differnt trails in Tikal National Park. You should try to get an early start in the morning to take the trails with tree cover and, in the afternoon, visit places without tree cover, such as the old airfield. In this manner, at sunset, 3:30 – 4:00 PM, the sun will be behind you.

• Try to visit the site during the mating season of the birds of prey (between March and May) and climb to the top of Temple IV in the morning when the sun has come out, to see the display of the Spitzaetus.

• If you want to go for a walk at night, ask for permission and do so in the company of a guide.

• Do not forget your cap or hat to protect yourself against the sun, take insect repellent and water if you go on long walks.

• Use socks and long trousers to avoid ticks. Don’t forget a skin lotion (for example Calamine), for insect bites.

• There are books on the Birds of Tikal you can consult, like The Birds of Tikal: An Annotated Checklist for Tikal National Park and Peten, Guatemala (1992) by Randell A. Beavers.

VISITORS REVIEWS

Tikal may possibly be the most magical place in Latin America for nature watching. As observers move through time from the pre-Columbian era to the present, one can easily imagine the central role nature played in the ideology and culture of this ancient, tropical way of life. Birds are easy to spot in Tikal, they fly today as they did even before the Maya city existed…what does the future hold?

Robin Schiele
www.robinschiele.com